Real-world efficiency data
Tesla Range Estimator
Based on real-world fleet efficiency data — not EPA lab results. Enter your conditions and battery degradation to see what you'll actually get on a cold UK morning, a motorway run, or a summer holiday.
Quick scenarios
Your Tesla
Driving conditions
Estimated range
≈ 260 Wh/mi · 75 kWh baseline assumed
Range impact by factor
Baseline ≈ 260 Wh/mi real-world efficiency. Typical real-world estimates from third-party fleet & benchmark data — not official Tesla or lab figures. Results vary with driving style, tyres and conditions.
Cold weather in the UK
At 0°C, expect 15–20% less range from battery chemistry alone. With the heater on, add another 10–20%. Real losses in a UK January can reach 35–40%. Teslas with heat pumps (Model 3/Y from late 2020) handle cold significantly better than older resistive-only heaters.
Speed is the biggest drain
Aerodynamic drag increases with the square of speed — going from 60 to 70 mph uses roughly 20% more energy per mile. On a UK motorway at 70 mph you'll see around 94% of the 65 mph baseline. Push to 80–85 mph and that drops to 75–81%. Cruise control at 60–65 mph is the sweet spot.
Battery degradation
Tesla batteries typically lose 10–15% capacity after 5 years and 150,000+ miles. LFP packs (Model 3/Y RWD) degrade less than NCA/NMC. You can find your car's current degradation via the TeslaBatteryCheck tool or by checking rated vs. actual range in your Tesla app.
Don't know? Check yours →About these estimates
Wh/mi efficiency figures are derived from TeslaFi fleet telemetry (200M+ miles), Recurrent Auto fleet data, and Bjørn Nyland benchmark tests. They reflect typical real-world driving at 65 mph — not EPA lab conditions. Individual results vary with driving style, tyre pressure, and road conditions.
EPA or WLTP? Why the same Tesla is quoted two different ranges
Tesla quotes different range figures depending on the market, because the test cycles differ. US cars carry an EPA figure; UK and European cars carry a WLTP one. WLTP's cycle is the gentler of the two — lower average speeds and a milder profile — so it generally returns a number 10–20% higher than EPA for what is physically the identical car.
Neither is wrong, and neither is a promise. Both are lab procedures run at moderate temperatures with climate control barely working, which is why a UK WLTP figure can look optimistic on a cold motorway run. The estimator above starts from your car's rated figure and applies real-world adjustments on top, so treat the official number as the ceiling rather than the expectation.
Getting more range out of a cold day
Most winter range loss is recoverable with habits rather than hardware. Precondition while still plugged in — warming the cabin and battery from the wall rather than from the pack is the single biggest one. Set a scheduled departure and the car does it automatically, so you leave with a warm battery that also charges faster if you need to stop en route.
Beyond that: seat heaters draw a fraction of what cabin heating does, so lean on them and drop the cabin temperature a degree or two; check tyre pressures, which fall with the temperature and quietly add rolling resistance; and expect short winter trips to be the worst case, since the car spends much of the journey warming up and never settles into an efficient cruise. Our battery management guide covers the habits that matter year-round.